Lions and tigers and seals... Oh my!

7.30pm Saturday 13th April

South Georgia was magnificent.

Gwen and I woke up like excited children at Christmas. We threw back the curtains to a glorious sunrise over calm seas with rocky peaks rising steep out the water. What a sight for sore eyes! I didn't even mind waking up at 6.15am just to see it! Once the colours had faded and the sun was over the horizon we threw on thermals and jumpers and jackets and scarves and hats and rushed up to Monkey Island to watch the ship steam through the islands into harbour. But by some brilliant stroke of luck all these layers were unnecessary as the air temp was 16 degC above the average for the cruise so far! (cruise average air temperature has been -2 degC and the morning was 14 degC.  During the day it got even hotter!). I hear the UK has been sunbathing too? 20 degC in Norwich? Don't use up ALL the good weather before I get back!

King Edward Point (KEP) BAS base is in Cumberland Bay on the North-East (ish) part of South Georgia. The landscape is reminiscent of the Norwegian Fjords but less lush. Craggy stark pinnacles tower out of the sea, with glaciers snaking round their sides to reach down and touch the water. Some of the peaks were snow capped and catching the morning sun in brilliant white flashes. Those without snow rose up harsh and jagged, but the warm red-tinged rock making them feel less austere. There was little in the way of vegetation as the steep topography and harsh winds strip the land of soil, leaving the bare bones of the land unadorned. There were huge icebergs in the bay adding a pleasing contrast to to warm morning and sunlit land. As we approached the base we could see Grytviken the old whaling station sitting in the shadow of a sharp mountain. The base itself is a series of low white buildings with red roofs that sits on a flat spit out into the bay. It was somewhat surreal to tie up next the building as the shore seems to gently sink into the sea and it does not look even close to deep enough for a big vessel like ours! From the ship we could see groups of seals frolicking at the waters edge. It was very exciting to actually be here and know that soon we would be on shore. It had been suggested as a possibility that maybe we might get to visit South Georgia but I had not let myself hope too much in fear of disappointment. So it was just wonderful to actually be there!

South Georgia has a very pristine environment. So before disembarking we had a briefing about the dos and don'ts. We were told not to even take a pebble from the shore as a souvenir (let alone one of the whale bones that were lying all over the place!) We also had to scrub and disinfect our shoes and check our bags, pockets and even velcro on our clothing for seeds/soils etc. We were also warned about the fur seals, extreme weather South Georgia experiences and about the dangerous condition of the old whaling stations.

So with our boots freshly scrubbed and our pockets and velcro clean we clambered down the gangway and onto solid ground. Hurrah! Gwen and I started walking round the cove towards Grytviken and had not gone 50m when a young seal burst out from behind a tussock of grass to bar the middle of the path! It was a cute wee one trying its best to look intimidating but looking like a big wet pug. We made no move to approach it and it quickly got bored and let us pass. We were just astounded at how close and engaged you can get with the seals here. Quickly we realised that the entire path was lined with seals. Most of them were too sleepy to take much notice as we passed (and took photos) but the occasional one would charge towards us with a wild look in its eye, teeth barred and growling ferociously. Some of them were pretty damn scary!! They can move deceptively fast for such lumbering blubbery creatures. The walk round the cove was a strange mix of being somewhat on edge and on guard, with moments of being mesmerised by your proximity to these wild creatures. Some would calmly let you approach and then just make the cutest sleepy faces at you. My camera is filled with photos of seals sunbathing belly up or blinking sleepily from atop a tuft of grass or messing about in the water. Lovely creatures! They were constantly calling to each other, making a big noise for such chubby wee things. They have disconcertingly  human voices and sound like someone crying out for help. The whole valley echoed with them.

Our plan for the day was a walk in the morning, head back to the ship for lunch then explore Grytviken, the museum and the base in the afternoon. So we wandered on through Grytviken and round the cove towards the cemetery. The cemetery is surrounded by a white picket fence and stood out bright in the sunny morning. Shackleton is buried here with a beautiful stone memorial. At his side is Frank Wild his right hand man, whose ashes were moved here a few years ago. There was a large group of us from the ship at the graveside and it was a strange atmosphere. We were all there to have a drink with the Boss.* I like the concept of this tradition. Its like a pilgrimage or something and gives you a way to show your respect but that embraces the character of the person. The sun was streaming down and we stood around the grave with beers and a somewhat elated feeling at actually being here. But there was also a very respectful, almost awed, atmosphere. Having just travelled from Elephant Isle to South Georgia, and having seen the sheer mountainous terrain of the island, the reality of Shackletons journey is just breathtaking. I felt quite deeply affected by being at his grave and I think everyone else did too.

*  (I hope he won't be offended that I stuck to orange squash as I a) can't drink beer as it contains gluten and b) I am still on tramadol!)

Gwen and I planned on walking round the coast to Penguin River to see a penguin colony there. But after walking a bit more round the cove we changed our minds as there were just too many het up fur seals for it to be a relaxing walk in the sun. So instead we clambered up to a flatter area at the feet of the really steep mountains and roughly headed towards Penguin River/Discovery Point.  The Sun was absolutely beating down and we down to vest-tops and sunglasses at one point! We stopped for a wee chocolate break and to take in the view next to a friendly skua who was perched on a perfect look out point. The panorama was astounding. Towering mountains, rusting whaling station, glaciers, icebergs, calm water reflecting the ship and skyline in perfect symmetry, seals, sunshine.... etc etc etc. Apparently it rains 300 days a year there and has hurricane winds frequently (possibly even worse than Lewis!). Somehow we visited on just a perfect day! The morning walk was lovely. It had been pretty boggy underfoot at times but the weather and the landscape was thoroughly rejuvenating. We even went for a wee paddle in Gull Lake. Cold. It was very cold. Very very cold.

In the afternoon we again ran the seal gauntlet and headed round the cove to Grytviken. The old whaling station has a funny atmosphere. It is monstrous piles of rusting machinery, some of which you would rather not imagine what it could have been used for. The scale of everything is strange too. Against the backdrop of mountains it seems small and unthreatening but up close the saws and oil drums tower over you. There is a small museum in one of the buildings which, as well as going into graphic detail about whaling (shudder), has some lovely rooms about the discovery and exploration of the island. There were some beautiful old charts and maps on the walls and photographs of Shackleton and other explorers. We also took the time to have a wander round the small church at the back of Grytviken. It is quite simple inside but filled with tributes that have been left for Shackleton. In the back of the church was a small library filled with beautiful old Norwegian books. The entire place was charming and simple but with the rich history of South Georgia very evident.

So how would you top off such an incredible day? How about a BBQ under the stars? Yes please! The base has set up a very impressive row of huge flaming BBQs. They had a low trough for a brazier to stand round as the evening started to get cold. The ship supplied an impressive array of salads and beers. The base provided piles of meat including reindeer steaks! People are still talking about just how amazing the reindeer was! The food was actually quite nice for vegie coeliac me too. After loads of heavy spicy meals on the ship a simple salad was a welcome change. So we stood around glowing fires on the shore of South Georgia, tucking into reindeer (and salad!) with the sky was blazing with stars above us. The milky way was a shining banner across the sky and the air was filled with the crackling of the fire and the calling of fur seals. The base people were really nice and I made friends with the resident seal poo expert and the helicopter pilot. Pretty cool huh?!

The next morning dawned cold and clear and the bay around us had a skin of ice on it. This made for beautiful reflections of the sunlit mountains. We waved goodbye to South Georgia at 7am and spent most of the morning steaming past the island. Watching the landscape of South Georgia through the container window made my shift much more bearable. Mountains and glaciers and sunshine. I spent a bit of time between samples out on deck watching macaroni penguins messing around in the wake of the ship. They are lovely silly looking things!

5pm Tuesday 16th April

I must apologise that it has taken me so long to post this. I have a multitude of reasons (/excuses!) After South Georgia I got really ill for a couple of days as my coeliacs kicked into gear. So with that and the back pain I was pretty knocked out at the end of shift. I am feeling better now though (of course my back is still horrendous). It has also taken me a bit of time to condense down the whole South Georgia experience. I have only an hour or so each afternoon free to write stuff for this lovely blog so have been doing a few paragraphs a day. Hopefully this means it is less of a rambling stream of consciousness than I might have produced the day after! Work is a little manic. It takes us 6 hours to run one CTD cast... and this section we have been having CTDs every 3-4 hours. We have quite a backlog. It has been pretty intense.

The end is starting to feel in sight now. I won't be home till the 1st of May and we have a mega ton of work to get through before we get there. Before none of us could really think much beyond South Georgia but with the island far in our wake it is only the thought of home someday soon that pushes on through the day! Days seem to all merge together here. Often the only was to tell what day it is today by what you get for dinner. Fish Friday. Steak Saturday. Curry night Sunday. Etc etc. It feels like I have been at sea forever and yet also feels like I have only just started.

Seriously guys it would be soooooooo nice to hear from you! Post a comment or email me. I don't really mind if you don't have much to say. It would just be nice to hear your voice. Metaphorically at least.

Besos x x x x x x